I have always found Bundelkhand very fascinating and timeless. Where rivers, hills and forts all continue with a timeless journey passing over several centuries. Nothing seems to have changed over time in terms of cultural values, heritage, and way of life of the people residing in the region. My Journey to Jhansi, and further to Mahoba and Lalitpur was a very memorable one. I took off for a week, and took the cab to Jhansi, with a plan to end my travel in Chitrakoot.
I wanted to look out and search for a world that has stopped, where life flows in eternity in every village, town and cities, that evolved over time. I wanted to witness firsthand, the glorious past of the Bundela dynasty, its forts and palaces and the life in the nearby villages that are located on the banks of meandering rives, agricultural fields and lakes. I hoped to see remnants of a past civilization that evolved over time, through its violent past and peaceful, landscapes. I was almost sure to re-discover its present through its timeless history.
“Bundelkhand” as the name suggest, derived from name of “the Bundela” dynasty, that replaced “the Chandela” dynasty in the 14th Century. Though, Madhya Pradesh, has larger areas, Uttar Pradesh also has seven districts namely Banda, Jhansi, Jalaun, Hamirpur, Mahoba, Chitrakoot and Lalitpur whereas Madhya Pradesh has only six districts namely Chhatarpur, Tikamgarh, Damoh, Sagar, Datia and Panna.
At the outset, my first experience has been that the region is comprising of ravines and plain areas, followed hilly Vindhyan region. Landscape is so idealistic where rivers forms loops and bends with many meanders in the lowlands.
At Jhansi, I could hear the voices of an era, that was full of military invasions, the forts standing tall as guardians protect the realm, villages and towns. Dotted with forts, palaces and strongholds that resisted invasions by local chatraps against other rulers, history has recorded several such instances such as the Battle of Jaitpur, which was fought between the Maratha Empire under Peshwa Baji Rao I, on behalf of Chhatrasal Bundela, the ruler of Bundelkhand; and the Mughal Empire under Muhammad Khan Bangash in March 1729. It was a fight to protect the Mughal Capitals of Agra and Delhi.
During my journey, I have met several people, who said, their ancestors narrated stories through folk songs in Alha. My sojourn through cultural uniqueness of local cuisines, folk dances and crafts was unique experiences. I never knew about “Jawara” which is the harvest dance and Ravala, a dance form, very popular in local marriages and Shara seen in Hamirpur and Lalitpur districts.
I have observed that agriculture was the major source of income in the villages which is often challenged by bouts of droughts. Like in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, here too, Tourism has so many potentials to change the character of the rural economy, particularly the “Cultural and Heritage Tourism”.
I truly feel, feel that Bundelkhand region of Uttar Pradesh like in Madhya Pradesh, has huge potential to become an “International Wedding Destination”. The Forts and Palaces, which are not so large like Rajasthan, but having unique settings of lakes and rivers, such as Barua Sagar Fort in Jhansi, left me speechless. No doubt It was the summer palace of Rani Laxmi Bai, built around 260 years ago, I could hear the War Cries from its ramparts, the fierce attacks by cavalry and soldiers on horses between Marathas and the Bundelas. The peaceful, Barua Sagar Lake, settles all the noises down to tranquility and oneness with nature.
Similarly, the Tehrauli fort, around 50 km from Jhansi, still holding with it the remains of large palaces, stepwells, temples, and other once-grand buildings, reminded me an ancient era of valor and sacrifice, of heroes that lived to protect the region. The Mastani Mahal another diamond in the journey, presented the unfinished story of Mastani Bai, wife of Peshwa, and daughter of Chhatrasal Bundela.
Several other heroes, who lived and left their names and legacies in Digara Fort, Champathrai Palace, Chirgao Fort, Ragunath Rao palaces that formed part of its rich history.
My visit to Lalitpur, district, emotionally captivated my love for nature and took me to centuries old hidden treasures such as the Dashavatara Temple in Deogarh, which was built in the 6th century and sat on the bank of Betwa river, the experience was very peaceful. I could immediately feel the freshness in the air and realized that it was such an important world class wellness tourism destination that can offer several options for Trekking, and water-based activities. Already, the Rampura Fort at Jalaun is visited by International Guests.
Other forts such as Balabehat fort, Banpur Fort, Saurai Fort, Madawara Fort and Sirsa Ki Ghadi have immense potentials to become unique heritage tourism units through adaptive reuse.
Banda is another heritage tourism wonder, located on the bank of the Ken. How can I forget, the first sight of the most famous Kalinjar fort, an ASI protected monument, built during 3rd Century as per historians. It was also the place where famous Sher Shah Suri met his death in 1545.
Finally, I found Kashmir in Mahoba district due to presence of several lakes and greenery. I went to the famous Sun temple, also known as the Rahila Sagar Sun Temple, built in Pratihara style, built in 9th century. I went to Charkhari Palace and realized that pan leaves is also produced in large quantity here.
My journey ended in Chitrakoot, most integral part of the Ramayana Circuit, related to the life and times of Lord Ram and a very pious place. Chitrakoot, has the Ranipur Tiger Reserve. A very refreshing zone for spiritual, yoga and eco-tourism.
My weeklong travel to “Bundelkhand” to study its heritage tourism, was both a surprise as well as happy experience. I felt that region is not yet explored for its tourism potential, where social and cultural integration is so much an inherent underlying character in the day-to-day life of its people. People. The Bundelkhand Tourism Circuit has more than one site that has richness to become an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
My perspective of Uttar Pradesh Tourism has completely changed after vising the region. Never thought, would face living history right in the face, living memories of the past would walk and talk, a rich past shall come forward on its own to meet and take you back in time. I think, the timelessness of the forts and palaces, perseverance, rich historical roots of its local populace, their folk lore, crafts and local cuisine, presents a cosmic romantic connection that is waiting to be unraveled.