As a child, Holi was the time when I could be my mischievous best; running, laughing, chasing, and being covered in a rainbow of colours. And ofcourse the joy of wielding pichkaris and hurling water balloons! It was a festival where the pursuit of fun was unrestricted, allowing me to revel to my heart’s content. That’s all, Holi was my fun time, with my grandmother taking pauses while making those scrumptious ‘Gujhias’ and narrating the stories of Prahlad and Krishna, also singing ‘phag’ songs every now and then in the middle of those stories! While I sat next to her in the open veranda, where the Holi delicacies were made in large quantities, being half intrigued by those stories and hoping to get a chance to make ‘Gujhias’. These cherished memories still remain deeply engraved in my consciousness.
Growing up, Holi gradually became an obligatory observance, more like a holiday that I would spend having a lazy morning. Reflecting on those years now, a pang of regret fills my heart. Growing up in a state renowned for its festive vibrancy, rich culture and rooted traditions, I realised that I had overlooked a wealth of opportunities. Now I wanted to explore, especially Krishna’s Braj, when it was at its colourful best. While delving into the unique Holi traditions of my state, I found a goldmine of beautiful Holi backdrops. The more I read, the more I realised the essence of Holi, and wished to be teleported those those locations, which narrated the way to live life; just like a grand, colourful celebration!
Holi is more of a divine and fulfilling experience, all the more, when you are where it all started: Uttar Pradesh! A festival that arouses a feeling of divine ecstasy in Krishna’s own land. For many like me, who are in search of fulfilment, Uttar Pradesh stands as a gateway to a profound awareness where the divine intersects with human emotions, offering a journey akin to a rollercoaster ride. It’s a place where the journey of self-discovery seems to commence. Here, amidst a labyrinth of spiritual and religious amalgamations, awaits an unforgettable odyssey through people, places, festivals and celebrations. This is a state that celebrates all facets of life, a state that has nurtured its culture and never detached from its roots.
The state, while being enveloped in the vibrant hues of Holi, shows the world the myriad dimensions of this ancient festival. A time when the people are drenched in an euphoria of devotion, experiencing the state at its pinnacle. Air filled with laughter of children and adults alike, faces smeared with hues of red, green, and yellow, chasing each other with colours, and pichkaris, their gleeful shouts echoing in all directions. The aroma of traditional sweets wafts across all localities, mingling with the vibrant colours, creating a sensory symphony that encapsulates the essence of Holi – a celebration of joy, camaraderie, and love.
Over the years I was blessed with opportunities to witness the unique ways Holi is celebrated throughout the state, and each time I was speechless, immersed in emotions, realising my existence in the most beautiful way possible. My fondest recollection of Holi in the state traces to some extremely important festive destinations in the state : Braj, Kashi, and Awadh region.
Radha Krishna’s Braj Ki Holi
In Braj, the sacred land where Lord Krishna, the divine incarnation of Lord Vishnu, was born, the very essence of Holi blossomed. As the legend goes, Krishna, with his mischievous charm and divine wisdom taught the world the true meaning of love, compassion, and righteousness. With playful abandon, he played Holi with His beloved Radha and the gopis with vibrant colours, and flowers. Through Krishna’s playful antics and teachings, Holi became more than just a festival of colours; it became a timeless reminder of evoking happiness, humanity, and love in humankind. And thus, from the sacred soil of Braj, the spirit of Holi continues to echo through the ages. Visit Braj, and witness magic and intrigue unfold firsthand. During Holi, the traditions of Braj come alive and make time stand still.
While in Braj, which covers the mystical Mathura, Vrindavan, Nandgaon and adjoining areas, I chanced to witness some extraordinary ancient traditions. The Holi of Braj was different! The Holi celebrations in Braj last for 15 to 20 days straight. Each day unfolds a new Holi tradition. On a few days, women dressed in vibrant dresses, called ‘Huriyarins’ chase the men called ‘Huriyars’ to enact the ancient tradition of ‘Lathmar Holi’, when they use sticks to playfully beat the men for throwing colours at them. This is how Radha and the other ‘Gopis’ chased young Krishna and his friends for being mischievous during Holi.
During this time, Holi is not just played with ‘abeer’ and ‘gulal’ here; Braj is also famous for its flower and Laddoo Holi.
It’s not just me who got enticed by the idea of coming to Mathura, Vrindavan to witness these grand spectacles in person, the region is heavily flocked by people coming from not just the country but different nations.
Something that really touched me here was witnessing the widows play Holi in Vrindavan, all lost in Krishna’s love, like their beloved ‘sakhis’, all disconnected from their worldly miseries. They traditionally play Holi with flowers, it is when they push away the barriers, in a state of bliss.
It’s not just the people who enjoy this festival in Braj, even Krishna steps down from his pedestal and plays Holi with people all mesmerised in his company; the young, old, and children, all alike. In fact the Holi celebration in Braj begins only when the priests of various temples, especially the Dwarakadheesh temple and Banke Bihari Temple, throw colours on the devotees on the behalf of Radha and Krishna. The scenes are surreal. People dancing, all ecstatic, crying in happiness and singing the melodies of Holi takes you to a completely different realm.
Beyond the surface revelry, Braj Holi provides the visitor spiritual journey, allowing visitors to connect with the essence of Lord Krishna’s teachings, immersing one in devotion experienced never before. Beyond the surface revelry, Braj Holi provides a profound spiritual journey, allowing visitors to connect with the essence of Lord Krishna’s teachings on love and devotion. It’s a cultural immersion that promises to awaken the senses and leave indelible memories of India’s rich heritage and spirituality. It’s a cultural journey that promises to awaken the senses and create lasting impressions of India’s vibrant heritage and spiritual essence.
Holika Dehan in Gaon Phalen
Phalen celebrates Holi in a unique way. The tradition of Holika Dehan is elevated to a remarkable level in this village near Mathura. Phalen is said to be the place where Prahlada was born, an ardent devotee of Lord Vishnu. Born in a Demon family that despised the name of Vishnu, he faced immense hardships in keeping up with his faith. His father Hiranyakashyap, on failing to sway him, resorted to sacrificing Prahlada in a pyre, with his sister Holika, blessed with immunity to fire, holding Prahalad on her lap. However, divine intervention altered the course of events. As the flames engulfed them, Holika perished in agony, while Prahlada emerged unscathed, joyfully playing amidst the ashes come morning. This was the beginning of a tradition.
The ritual of Holika Dehan unfolds on the eve of Holi, where a colossal bonfire, prepared with cow dung cakes and sticks sourced from nearby villages, is erected, reaching heights of 10 to 12 feet and spanning 25 to 30 feet in width. An unseen fiat is performed by Monu Panda here when he leaps into the roaring flames year after year to pay homage to Prahlada. Astonishingly, he emerges unharmed, an evidence to his family’s purported blessing, which is immunity to fire as long as their devotion remains unwavering. Phalen’s Holika Dehan is a phenomenal display of devotion and tradition, evoking a sense of awe and reaffirming faith in the divine.
Kashi’s Masan Ki Holi
Varanasi is Shiva’s holy abode that rests on His trident, It is the genesis of the end, a city that celebrates both life and death. Here, Holi is celebrated beyond its worldly significance honouring Krishna’s ‘Moh’ in the backdrop of Shiva’s ‘Satya’. Here, even death is celebrated on Holi. Known as Masan ki Holi, this unique tradition unfolds over two days, following the Rangbhari Ekadashi. The celebration involves playing Holi with ashes of dead bodies along with gulal. The sages and aghoris gather at the Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats of Varanasi, which are two renowned cremation ghats of the city and commence the unusual and chilling celebrations. This tradition is said to be followed since Shiva Himself started it. It is said that after his wedding with Maa Parvati, Shiva visited Kashi, where he played Holi with her on Rangbhari Ekadashi. A day later he invited all his ‘ganas’ or devotees, including deities, demons, aghoris and ghosts to celebrate with him. As the aghoris, demons, and spirits abstained from playing with colors, Shiva started playing Holi with ashes with them and they responded drenching themselves in Shiva’s devovation and conformity. The Masan Holi signifies the ephemerality of life and the perpetuity of the soul and how happiness or ‘ananda’ is the only purpose of life.
Ramlalla Celebrates His First Awadh Holi
This year marks a momentous occasion as Ramlalla celebrates his first Holi in Awadh. Clad in resplendent pink attire and adorned with the Holi colours, Lord Ram graced the temple sanctum, enveloping the atmosphere in divine splendour. Adorned with exquisite floral garlands and gulaal, His idol radiated with divine grace and purity. Within the temple precincts, priests showered fragrant flowers upon the sacred idol, while joyous devotees participated in the Raag Bhog ritual.
The Holi festivities in Awadh resonate with more than just a riot of colors; they are infused with the melodious strains of phag songs, bhajans, and traditional holi compositions. This amalgamation of cultural richness elevates the spirit of the land of ‘tehzeeb’ to unparalleled heights, ushering in a euphoric celebration that transcends mere festivities, embracing the essence of divine devotion and joyous harmony.
A Holi that Celebrates Camaraderie in Deva Sharif
Deva Sharif, a town in the Barabanki District of Uttar Pradesh, merely 36 kms from the state capital Lucknow, is famous for the shrine of Haji Waris Ali Shah, standing tall in its pristine white and emerald glory. Come Holi, the shrine embraces not just the colours but camaraderie. The shrine opens its gates for Holi celebrations to take place within its precinct. Hindus and Muslims, hand in hand, come together, their laughter mingling with the vibrant hues of gulal and the melodious strains of traditional phag music. Here, amidst the sanctity of the shrine, the boundaries of religion dissolve, paving the way for a celebration of unity and acceptance.
Savouring the Flavours of Holi
What else is uncommon and holi specific? The drool worthy food and beverages! Holi has its own food and their delicious aromas. Every mother’s kitchen comes alive in the state as Holi approaches. Amidst the joyous festivities, food becomes an integral part of the celebration, evoking memories of heritage and tradition passed down through generations. At the heart of Holi feasting, lies the beloved Gujhias, enticing all with their irresistible flavour, filled with a mixture of khoya, nuts, and aromatic spices.
Accompanying the Gujhias is the iconic Thandai, a refreshing drink infused with an assortment of nuts, seeds, and spices, offering a rejuvenating respite from the fervour of the festivities. Amongst the array of Thandai variants, the Bhang Thandai holds a special place, revered for its intoxicating blend that is said to be favoured by Lord Shiva himself. No Holi feast is complete without the savoury delights of homemade namkeens, tantalising potato chips, and crispy papads, lovingly prepared in every household. And no, these delicacies are not just for the family members but are especially made to serve the relatives, neighbours and guests who visit the house during Holi.
These crunchy treats serve as the perfect accompaniment to the colourful revelry, warming hearts with their nostalgic charm. Each bite tells a story of culture and community, uniting people in the joyous spirit of the festival.