Bundelkhand, a captivating region in central India, a blend of rugged landscapes and royal splendours has reverberated through its forts, temples, and rivers for centuries. Turning through the glorious past of its valorous rulers, Bundelkhand’s history traces back to the 9th century, when the Chandela Rajput kings built the region an identity through its magnificent fortresses and temples. They were followed by the Bundela’s, who continued the baton to shape the region’s architectural and cultural legacy.
Till the arrival of the 19th century, the region became a pivotal battleground during the first war of independence, led by Rani Laxmi Bai of Jhansi, who stood brave against the British. Centuries apart, today, Bundelkhand stands as a witness to India’s rich cultural and historical heritage.
Spanning across the state of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh, Bundelkhand offers a seamless blend of ancient forts, spiritual centres and the scenic flow of rivers like the Sindh, Betwa, Dhasan, Ken, and Yamuna.
To celebrate World Tourism Day on September 27, we set out on a journey to explore the hidden gems of Bundelkhand in Uttar Pradesh, covering historical cities like Jhansi and Lalitpur. The global theme of ‘Tourism and Peace’ felt perfectly suited to this region, where the calm of nature and the grandeur of history come together to create a unique and enriching travel experience.
Our adventure began in Jhansi, a city forever etched in India’s collective memory thanks to its association with the legendary freedom fighter Rani Laxmi Bai. Jhansi’s role in the 1857 First War of Independence is well-known, and the city honours its past with pride through its historic sites, particularly the majestic Jhansi Fort.
Built in 1613 by Raja Bir Singh Deo atop Bangira Hill, Jhansi Fort is a symbol of Bundelkhand’s indomitable spirit. As we set off through the fort’s expansive grounds, the stories of Laxmi Bai’s courageous fight against British forces came to life. The fort’s museum, filled with plaques and antiques, offers a glimpse into the rich history of Bundelkhand’s royal dynasties and the bravery of its people.
Moving ahead in our quest to explore Bundelkhand, just 22 km from Jhansi, we arrived at Barua Sagar, a fort built between 1705 and 1707 by Raja Udit Singh of Orchha. However, the fort has been a witness to some of the fiercest battles, especially among the Marathas and the Bundelas. The fort along the lake served as a summer retreat for Orchha rulers.
A short drive ahead of the significant historical location brought us to the Parichha Dam on the banks of Betwa. An ideal spot for nature lovers and travellers, the dam adds to the scenic beauty of the region but also plays a crucial role in irrigation and electricity generation, helping sustain the local economy.
Bidding adieu to Jhansi until next time, we headed towards Lalitpur, 133 km from Jhansi. A town imbued in history and spirituality has some of the iconic destinations, like Deogarh. Once a key military and trade route connecting North India to the Deccan, Deogarh’s strategic importance led to cultural exchanges across dynasties, including the Guptas, Gurjara-Pratiharas, Marathas, and Muslim rulers.
Arrival at Deogarh, we were introduced to the standing marvel of the Dasavatara Temple, a 6th-century Gupta architecture. The temple, dedicated to Lord Vishnu, is one of the earliest Panchayatana temples in northern India. Its intricate terraced base is adorned with sculpted panels depicting stories from Vaishnava texts, such as the Gajendra Moksha, where Lord Vishnu rescues the elephant Gajendra, and the Nara-Narayana Tapasya, a tale of divine penance. The temple’s doorway, with its stunning carvings of the river goddesses Ganga and Yamuna, is a masterpiece of artistry.
The place offers a breath-taking view of the Betwa River as it winds through the verdant landscape, adding to the serene beauty of the area. Continuing through the Vindhyan range, we came across Deogarh’s Jain temple complex a few kilometres uphill. The complex is home to over 40 ancient temples, each one a stunning representation of Jain style of architecture.
Known as the Atishay Kshetra Deogarh, the temple complex, dedicated to the 16th Jain Tirthankara, is particularly impressive, featuring a towering 12-foot idol carved from red stone. The intricate carvings on the temples’ walls and pillars narrate stories of Jain devotion and spirituality from the 8th century. Deogarh’s spiritual significance is further enhanced by nearby Buddhist relics, including rock-cut statues, which add another layer to the town’s rich religious heritage.
The ghats of Atishay Kshetra Deogarh not only provide a serene gaze at the endless waters of Betwa, but also display the finesse of hand sculpted murals that have survived for centuries to amaze us.
Beyond its historical and spiritual importance, Bundelkhand is also a sanctuary of natural beauty. Just a short distance from Deogarh, we visited the Mahaveer Swami Vanya Jeev Vihar, a peaceful wildlife sanctuary named after the Jain Tirthankara Mahavira. This sanctuary reflects Bundelkhand’s deep connection between spirituality and nature, offering a retreat for both spiritual seekers and nature enthusiasts.
The sanctuary spans a vast area of protected forest, featuring dense woods, rolling hills, and open grasslands. It is home to a wide array of wildlife, including deer, wild boars, lion-tail monkeys, and various reptiles. For bird watchers, it offers a paradise filled with migratory and resident birds like peafowl, partridges, and quails. As we explored the sanctuary, we were struck by the rich vegetation, including teak, sal, bamboo, and medicinal plants. A highlight of our trek was spotting a Himalayan Birch tree, historically used for writing ancient scriptures, reminding us of Bundelkhand’s cultural depth.
Walking a little more deeply into the jungle trek of the sanctuary, we spotted the board of Raj Ghat. An ancient ghat that made the Betwa River looks seamless. As we navigated our way a few steps down the Raj Ghat, the broad banks of the Betwa River glued us to its lush green forests that engulfed the river like a protective wall.
As the sun set, casting a golden glow over the sanctuary, we left with hearts full of memories. The Betwa River, flowing peacefully through the forest, enchanted the timeless connection between nature and spirituality.
Tucked away in the quiet countryside of Bundergurha, Lalitpur, I found the Jakhlaun Pump Canal, a perfect escape from the noise and rush of daily life that offered a relaxing boating experience. As we floated along its clear, calm waters, surrounded by the vibrant greenery, a deep sense of peace settled over me. Striding through the water slowly, every moment felt like a breath of fresh air that was truly rejuvenating.
Famished after a long day exploring nature and spirituality, we left the sanctuary and headed toward Bandargurha, a small village in Lalitpur. Just a few meters down the road, a sudden downpour added excitement to our journey. The rain transformed the village into a picturesque wonderland, completing the perfect landscape. After about 20 minutes of driving, we arrived at a hotel restaurant for lunch. As we sat waiting for our meal, the sky rumbled with thunder and flashes of lightning amid the pouring rain. Soon, our freshly prepared food arrived, and we savoured every bite. After relaxing for about 30 minutes, it was time to say good bye to Lalitpur.
With some great memories and a deeper understanding of the Bundelkhand’s glorious past and impeccable craftsmanship at ancient temples, we drove off towards Lucknow, with a promise to self to return soon.